Long Stitch Book Binding Tutorial: Sketchbook and Journal

This book-binding tutorial introduces the basics of long-stitch binding so you can apply it to a 6” x 4.5” book of any kind.

Background and History 

The long stitch binding technique has its roots in medieval Europe, where it was widely used between the 13th and 16th centuries for manuscripts, journals, and account books. This non-adhesive method features long, visible stitches along the spine that are both functional and decorative. They allow books to open flat while securely holding folded sections together without glue. The exposed spine not only emphasizes the book’s handmade character but also highlights the craftsmanship involved, making it especially popular for sketchbooks, artists’ journals, and small edition publications. Its simplicity and elegance have ensured its lasting appeal, even as bookbinding practices evolved over the centuries. 

Long-stitch binding was favored not only for its durability but also for its adaptability. Artisans experimented with thread patterns, colors, and spacing to personalize each book, often turning the spine into a subtle decorative element. Its design was practical for everyday use yet offered opportunities for creative expression, which is why it remains a favorite among modern makers who value both function and aesthetic. 

Over time, long stitch binding has been adapted in many creative ways. In this tutorial, you will learn how to execute this centuries-old technique the Dovetail way. Our method uses two to three larger holes along the spine, through which all stitching flows, rather than creating separate holes for each signature. This approach is our preferred method because it produces a strong, reinforced spine while creating the signature ‘v’ pattern along the stitches. This pattern not only adds visual appeal but also reinforces the book's structure, allowing it to withstand repeated use. By highlighting both form and function, this technique turns each book into a lasting object that celebrates the care and intention of handcraft. 

What you’ll need

1. Paper for your pages (watercolor, recycled, etc.)

2. Interior and exterior cover material (paper, book cloth, fabric, or leather)

3. Mat board (1/16-1/8th inch)

4. Waxed thread

5. Light adhesive (acid-free glues)

6. Bone folder or pottery modelers

7. Circle punch (leather punchers work best)

8. Dull needle (tapestry, yarn, or dating)

9. Awl (1-4mm tapered)

10. Ruler

11. Heavy-duty scissors

12. Dulled pencil

13. Paint brushes (rounded and flat)

Handy Notes

Mat Board Alternative: Don’t have a mat board? An old sketchpad works perfectly. Use the backing or any thick cardboard you have around. 

Custom Covers: If you create in other media, combine it with bookbinding by designing your own cover. 

Measuring: Measure twice and cut once. No one likes wasting material.

Cover Materials: Mid-weight Lokta paper for book cloth is the most forgiving for covers, making it ideal for beginners. Go to your local art store or find some online at Mulberry Paper Co., Hollander’s, and more.

Thread Length: Cut more thread than you need. This makes tying off the ends easier and ensures you do not run out mid-binding. 

Vintage Edges: For a vintage feel, use a straight-edge ruler to tear the edges of your paper. This creates a straight, yet organic edge. 

Workspace Cleanliness: Keep your workspace clean by using fresh newsprint or paper towels to prevent glue from getting where you do not want it. 

Applying Adhesive: Spread glue from the center outward to prevent excess from spilling or shifting your material while attaching the cover. 

Let’s Get Binding

1. Create Folios: Cut pages to 6” by 9”. Fold each sheet in half to create a folio (final page size 6” by 4.5”). Sharpen the folds with a bone folder so the pages lie flat. 

2. Create Signatures: Group 4-6 folios (folded pages) together and nest them inside one another to form a signature. Flatten the folds again with a bone folder. 

3. Cut Mat Board Covers: Cut front and back covers slightly larger than the folded pages (about 6.5” by 4.75”). Cut the spine piece slightly wider than the thickness of the lightly compressed, stacked signatures. This typically falls between half an inch and one inch, depending on your pages' thickness. 

4. Cut Exterior & Interior Cover Material: Cut your exterior cover material 1 inch larger than the boards on all sides to allow enough material to wrap around the edges (about 8.5” by 12.5”). Account for a small gap between the front cover, spine, and back cover so the book can open and bend properly when making your own measurements. Cut the interior cover material slightly smaller than the assembled cover mat boards so it fits neatly inside, making sure not to leave any overhang or potential uncovered space once the exterior cover paper is wrapped around. 

5. Marking & Punching Stitching Holes: On a scrap sheet of paper (preferably the same height as your book pages), mark 2-3 evenly spaced points along a straight, outer edge, all fitting within the height of your pages. Use this as a guide to transfer the same hole positions to all signature folds and the center of the spine. Use an awl to punch holes through the pencil marks along the folds of the signatures. Punch matching holes with a leather or hole punch in the matboard spine to use as your stitching channel. 

6. Glue Exterior Cover: Place the front cover, spine, and back cover onto the back center of the exterior cover material, leaving small gaps between each board. Apply an even layer of glue to the boards one at a time. Place each glued board back in its position, applying even and firm pressure to ensure all the edges are secured. If you are worried about your matboard moving during the process, you can use a pencil to mark the corners of where each piece should be placed. 

7. Fold & Glue Edges: Trim the corners of the cover material at a 45-degree angle, leaving the mat board thickness between the edge and the corner of the mat board, resulting in triangular scraps. Fold and glue the short edges one at a time first before moving on to the other 2 sides. After the short edges are glued down, make sure to use a bone folder or your fingernail to push in any excess material into the corner, or in high excess situations, fold the material in to create a new edge of the cover section. Once all four sides are glued down, use a bone folder to press the corners of your cover to make them as flat as possible. 

8. Glue Interior Cover: Place your interior cover paper face down on a cleaned surface or piece of newsprint. Apply a consistent level of glue across your material, starting in the center and moving outward towards the edges. Once your piece has been glued, place it in the center of your inside cover and apply even pressure along the entire surface. If there are some edges that are not sticking as well as other places, take a smaller paintbrush with glue to slide under the edge and stick it back down to the cover. 

9. Expose Cover Stitching Channels: Use your finger to locate the stitching channels from the outside of your cover spine and push an awl through to expose them. If your awl is not thick enough or needs to be rounded out, use the end of your bone folder to push the rest of the material into the inside, twisting as you apply even pressure. On the inside of your cover, use the tip of your bone folder to grab and pull the pushed-through material out and away from the hole, making sure to push it down as flat as possible. You may need to round off the outside of the hole after completing this step. 

10. Cut & Knot Thread: Measure and cut a piece of thread slightly longer than the height of your book times one more than the number of signatures (about 24-30 inches for this size). Tie a double or triple knot at one end, leaving a 2-3-inch tail to tie off one more time after binding. On the other end, thread your dull needle, leaving a 2-3-inch tail there as well. 

11. Bind the First Signature: Starting at the bottom hole, sew through the inside first signature, pulling out through the bottom hole of the spine until you hit the knot. Wrap your thread around the bottom and pull through the same hole in the same direction. From there, thread through the exterior of your cover to your next spine channel and signature hole, finishing on the inside of your signature. Repeat this until you reach your last hole, alternating inside and outside (if you have 2 holes, you only have to do it once). Once you have hit the last hole, wrap your thread around the top of your spine and stitch the opposite pattern to fill in any gaps from top to bottom until you flow back through the hole you started with. 

12. Add Additional Signatures: Attach the next signature by wrapping the thread around the bottom of your cover, starting at the previous signature's starting hole. Sew through the inside of your next signature to secure the bottom to the cover. Then just continue the same alternating pattern up the spine, wrapping around the top, and finishing through the starting hole. 

13. Tie Off The Thread: Once you have reached the point where only one section is missing (the step right before pulling through your last signature-starting hole), weave the thread under the thread holding your signature to the bottom cover. Pull tight and do the same for the one directly above it. Slide your thread under the middle section created and pull a tight knot or two to finish off your binding. Cut off the excess thread and turn to your first signature to tie a final knot. Now you have a fully functioning journal, sketchbook, planner, or whatever else you can use your hand-bound book for. 

We hope you enjoy your brand new, handmade book and that you learned a thing or two from this tutorial. You can find this and more in our independent publication, Hands at Work, which takes an inside look at the St. Petersburg, FL creative community. 

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We also offer private group workshops for anyone interested in learning linocut printmaking, bookbinding, or creative journaling just like this. Perfect for friends, families, team events, and special occasions. Email us at DovetailStudioFL@gmail.com for more information.